Menjahit Baju Tanpa Pola

Menjahit Baju Tanpa Pola

Menjahit Baju Tanpa Pola

Sewing Skills

In this project "How to Make a Dress", pattern pieces are changed, fabric is being recycled, and ruffles are made from scraps. These steps added on to the making of the dress are a lot to take on the first time.

Some people might attempt this project as a new sewer, and it could work out fine, just be prepared to review other pages as you go. Suggested pages in the works now, that could be helpful are, "Sewing Instructions", "Sewing Terms", and "Beginner Sewing Projects".

Lay Out

A This is the graduation gown laid out for the purpose of analyzing the fabric and pieces. When laying out pattern pieces, take note of the grain lines, and make sure the pattern pieces are laying in the proper direction, according to the marked grain lines on the pattern pieces.

B Just to get a rough idea, I laid out the pattern pieces on the gown as it is in view A. I determined there would be enough fabric to sew the dress, but the lining would need to come from somewhere else. SInce it's only about a yard and a half for the dress and less than another 3/4 of a yard for the lining, I knew this was doable. I would find the fabric for the lining in my stash.

C Here I'm cutting the gown at the gathers, so that I can lay the fabric flat. Pressing will be necessary on those gathers.

D. This is the gowns arm. Grad gowns have big arms, so there's a lot of fabric in them. Since I would be using the biggest pieces of the grad gown for the skirt, I got the smaller pieces, such as the front bodice pieces, out of the fabric from the arms.

E The large rectangular pattern piece towards the back of the photo is the skirt pattern piece. There will be 3 of those.

F This is a photo of the fabric squared on the grid. It's also pinned down to hold it in place while laying out the pattern.

This "How to Make A Dress" instruction is utilizing an old graduation gown, but you can use whatever you have. Check the pattern instructions for recommendations.

Marking the Pattern & Making Darts

A Mark and clip the bodice in several places on the bodice.

B Clip shoulders, arms, and side seams where pattern indicates

C Marking the dots on the darts.

D Connecting the dots

E Pinning and pressing the darts

F Sewing the Darts (2 darts in front, and 2 in back).

It Should Look Like This

Making the Inset

A I used the upper shoulder area of the gown for the inset, and the grain was going the right direction. Barely fit the pattern piece, but it worked.

B Cut it out & marked all the dots along the sides. The colored pins indicate where the dots are. That's where the ribbon will be criss-crossed, then sewn in place.

C Here the ribbon is sewn in place, and the ruffle is attached along the edges, just over the edge of the inset as shown. This ruffle was made out of the scrap of the gown, but you can also use ready made ruffle as suggested in the pattern directions.

D This is the inset complete and ready to sew to the bodice front.

E Make sure the inset is centered on the bodice front, and sew it on.

Applying the Ruffle

Apply the ruffle to the neck edge as pictured here.

Check back for more examples on how to make a dress.

Lining

A Sew the lining the same as the bodice.

B Right sides together, pin, the lining to the neck edge of the bodice, matching centers and shoulder seams.

C Stitch, trim seam and clip curves.

D It should look like this

Making the Skirt

A Cutting the three rectangular pattern pieces for the skirt

B Sewing the right sides together at the seams. Sew from the notch to the hem on the back seam.

C Sew a basting stitch 1/2" from top waist edge, and gather. This photo shows the zipper laid out.

D Gather according to bodice top, matching notches and seams.

Putting it Together

A The bodice and the skirt are nearly complete, but before we can finish, it's time to put it together.

B In this photo the seams and notches are matched, and the gather is adjusted to match the bodice.

C Lay the skirt on top of the bodice right sides together, and pin them together.

D Stitch the two pieces together.

E Press seam down from inside

F Press seam from the outside

Almost done with "How to Make a Dress"

Installing the Zipper

Video-Install zipper without pins, less than 10 minutes

A Place zipper 3/8" below neck edge. Bottom of zipper should end at notch.

B Pin closed zipper under opening edges with tab end 3/8" below neck edge, having edges meet at center of zipper.

C Sew 1/4" each side of center and across end, using adjustable zipper foot.

D Should look like this.

Note: The pattern calls for zipper tape, but in this example of how to make a dress, I did not use zipper tape. It can make installing a zipper easier, but this installation went very smooth, and is also an option.

Hem

A In this example I used 1/2" hem. Measure it using a measuring gauge, press, turn it another 1/2" for a finished look.

B Stitch hem and done. This is one version of how to make a dress.

Note: A ruffle is also used at the hem line in some of the costumes on this Simplicity pattern.

My Convertible/Infinity Dress.

Fabric: You’ll want to buy fabric that has at least 40% stretch. Jersey is great for this project but other stretchy materials will do, as long as they drape well and aren’t too bulky when you criss cross the straps onto each other.

I bought 7 meters (7.6 yards) of lycra jersey from the clearance section. Now, 7 meters is a lot of fabric but the tutorials all said to have straps that were at least 1.5x your height, which equals 9 feet (3m) in my case and I also needed 4 meters for my skirt based on my calculations using this tutorial.

Components: To make this dress you need four pieces: a circle for the skirt, two straps, and one piece for a “waist” band.

Photo source: http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitchery/infinity-dress.html

1. I had to cut out two half-circles to make my skirt. It’s possible to trace a full circle on one piece of fabric depending on how long you want you skirt to be (see This link for more info). Since I’m muy tall that wasn’t possible for me.

I started off by creating a half circle pattern for my circle skirt. I figured it would be way easier to trace this paper circle onto the fabric then to try to draw a circle directly onto this deceivingly slippery material. My mom had dropped off a bunch of huge 2010 calendars that were extras from her office. I taped a few together to have a big enough sheet of paper to trace my circle. You could probably do this just as easily with a few poster boards taped together.

I traced my circle onto the paper by pinning the end of my measuring tape to the top edge of the paper and rotating it around so that it acted like a compass. Like this (imagine the string is a measuring tape):

Again, this is a great tutorial on how to trace a circle skirt pattern.

Before anything could happen some simple math was required. To know where to trace the waistband circle (that’s the cutout part you see above) you must find X.

X= Waist Measurement ÷ 6.28

6.28 is Pi times 2. We use this calculation because the Circumference= 2r π. If you’re like “wtf, mate?” don’t worry about it, just know that this calculation works.

Moving on, let’s assume that X = 10”. You will now trace a circle using you measuring tape at the 10” mark. There you have it: your waistband hole.

IMPORTANT NOTE! Because Lycra Jersey is so stretchy, the hole I cut out, while the right size for any other fabric, ended up being too big and not fitting snugly at my waist (whish is what you want for this dress), You may want to be very conservative when tracing out and cutting out your waistband circle. maybe trace it to half the size it’s actually supposed to be. It’s much easier to make the hole bigger than it is to make it small

Now you’re ready to trace the actual length of the skirt. BUT because I had already traced an area for my waist and I didn’t want to lose the proper length of my skirt (I wanted it to go from my waist to my knee) I had to do some more math. My skirt length was 32”/82cm, I added the 10” from the waistband and traced my skirt at the 42”/107cm mark. This way the skirt would fall at the right place.

2. Cut out your material for the circle skirt.

3. Cut out the material for your waistband. This should be as long as your waist measurement and about 1.5-2” wide. Fold in half, pin and leave aside.

4. Lay both half circles on top of each other and pin together the side seams.

5. sew the side seams together.

I sewed this dress using a straight stretch stitch and tried not to stretch out the fabric too much while it was going through the machine so that it wouldn’t pucker.

6. Try on your skirt to make sure it fits

This is what happened earlier, my waistband hole was too big and I ended up with this ‘Twas a very sad moment in my life. Until I fixed it by taking it in. a lot.

7. Time for the straps. To decide how wide to make your straps, measure from the center of your bust to just under your arm. The suggested length for the straps is 1.5 times your height. Cut out your straps. I used my brother’s snowboard to trace my cutting line. That is until I realized snowboards are curved and so i used a long piece of cardboard as a guide instead.

8. Now cut out your waistband. I cut my waistband at 2” wide so that when I folded it over and pinned it to the skirt the finished result was a 1” wide waistband.

The point of the waistband is to give your skirt a finished look in case the back is exposed. Though the waistband is rarely seen because it’s often covered up by the straps when they’re tied there are some styles where the back of the skirt is completely visible.

9. Now its time for the assembly. The key to this to to remember to lay the right sides together.

Source for this instruction step: http://www.rostitchery.com/infinity-dress.html

Turn your skirt inside out–you are going to sew from the INSIDE of the waist–which means you don’t need a free arm on your machine. overlap the straps 3″-4″…

Photo source: http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitchery/infinity-dress.html

…and align the raw edges with the raw edge of the skirt waist. then take your waistband and lay it on top of the straps, the raw edges aligned with the skirt and strap edges. you will have 5 layers of fabric on top of each other. START SEWING AT THE OVERLAP. (for now just ignore the fact that only one end of the band is in place). when you get around to where you started sewing, overlap the band and cut the excess band, then finish sewing. the band ends will not meet–they will overlap, but they will be hidden by the straps):

this is the one and only seam. (if you made the skirt using one full circle instead of 2 half circles)

Photo source: http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitchery/infinity-dress.html

when the dress is done, it will look like this:

Photo source: http://rowena.typepad.com/rostitchery/infinity-dress.html

10. Rock your new convertible dress!

I still have a ton of left over fabric from 3m of fabric i used for cutting out two 12” x 9′ straps (basically I have 3m/9′ of fabric that went from being 150cm/59” wide to 90cm/35” wide) I plan on making a LeSac dress for an amiga sometime this week (more on that at a later date).

Peace,

Benny

Eyelets and Ribbons

I have this dress that has been sitting in my fabric pile because I couldn’t add a zipper to it unless I made it smaller and if I made it smaller, it would no longer fit me. I was sad because I loved this dress. But laying in bed (where I come up with most of my great ideas) I figured I could add eyelets and a ribbon and then I wouldn’t have to make the dress smaller. So thankfully for me, my sister already had the tool, all I needed was eyelets and it ended up being 50 eyelets, which I concluded later really only needed to be 30, but now its done and I love how it turned out.

I made marks with a pen before I started, I would recommend not using an ink pen, but something less permanent, so you can change where you put the eyelets as you go.

This is time consuming but really rather easy with the tool. All I did was punch a hole through the fabric with the tool and then stick the eyelet pieces on the top and bottom and crimp down with the tool and it was done. I know that you can do this also with the little tool that comes with the eyelets, you don’t have to buy the expensive tool. And to punch the holes a paper hole punch should work.

After your eyelets are in you can start threading your ribbon. This was hard. I used 10 yards of ribbon to start. I have to cut some off, but wanted to make sure I had the length I needed before I cut and with so many eyelets I wasn’t sure. Also you need to be able to open up the dress to get it off, in which you need a lot of extra ribbon.

This dress is not completely finished, the hem and back need to be sewed. I love the green against the pink dress.

I love this dress on but its very time consuming, this will definitely only be for special occasions and ones in which I wont need to get out of it quickly. It took my daughter about 5 minutes time to get the ribbons laced up and about the same for me to get them undone, that may not seem long, but if you think about how fast you can unzip something, well 5 minutes becomes really long