Sewing Skills

In this project "How to Make a Dress", pattern pieces are changed, fabric is being recycled, and ruffles are made from scraps. These steps added on to the making of the dress are a lot to take on the first time.

Some people might attempt this project as a new sewer, and it could work out fine, just be prepared to review other pages as you go. Suggested pages in the works now, that could be helpful are, "Sewing Instructions", "Sewing Terms", and "Beginner Sewing Projects".

Lay Out

A This is the graduation gown laid out for the purpose of analyzing the fabric and pieces. When laying out pattern pieces, take note of the grain lines, and make sure the pattern pieces are laying in the proper direction, according to the marked grain lines on the pattern pieces.

B Just to get a rough idea, I laid out the pattern pieces on the gown as it is in view A. I determined there would be enough fabric to sew the dress, but the lining would need to come from somewhere else. SInce it's only about a yard and a half for the dress and less than another 3/4 of a yard for the lining, I knew this was doable. I would find the fabric for the lining in my stash.

C Here I'm cutting the gown at the gathers, so that I can lay the fabric flat. Pressing will be necessary on those gathers.

D. This is the gowns arm. Grad gowns have big arms, so there's a lot of fabric in them. Since I would be using the biggest pieces of the grad gown for the skirt, I got the smaller pieces, such as the front bodice pieces, out of the fabric from the arms.

E The large rectangular pattern piece towards the back of the photo is the skirt pattern piece. There will be 3 of those.

F This is a photo of the fabric squared on the grid. It's also pinned down to hold it in place while laying out the pattern.

This "How to Make A Dress" instruction is utilizing an old graduation gown, but you can use whatever you have. Check the pattern instructions for recommendations.

Marking the Pattern & Making Darts

A Mark and clip the bodice in several places on the bodice.

B Clip shoulders, arms, and side seams where pattern indicates

C Marking the dots on the darts.

D Connecting the dots

E Pinning and pressing the darts

F Sewing the Darts (2 darts in front, and 2 in back).

It Should Look Like This

Making the Inset

A I used the upper shoulder area of the gown for the inset, and the grain was going the right direction. Barely fit the pattern piece, but it worked.

B Cut it out & marked all the dots along the sides. The colored pins indicate where the dots are. That's where the ribbon will be criss-crossed, then sewn in place.

C Here the ribbon is sewn in place, and the ruffle is attached along the edges, just over the edge of the inset as shown. This ruffle was made out of the scrap of the gown, but you can also use ready made ruffle as suggested in the pattern directions.

D This is the inset complete and ready to sew to the bodice front.

E Make sure the inset is centered on the bodice front, and sew it on.

Applying the Ruffle

Apply the ruffle to the neck edge as pictured here.

Check back for more examples on how to make a dress.

Lining

A Sew the lining the same as the bodice.

B Right sides together, pin, the lining to the neck edge of the bodice, matching centers and shoulder seams.

C Stitch, trim seam and clip curves.

D It should look like this

Making the Skirt

A Cutting the three rectangular pattern pieces for the skirt

B Sewing the right sides together at the seams. Sew from the notch to the hem on the back seam.

C Sew a basting stitch 1/2" from top waist edge, and gather. This photo shows the zipper laid out.

D Gather according to bodice top, matching notches and seams.

Putting it Together

A The bodice and the skirt are nearly complete, but before we can finish, it's time to put it together.

B In this photo the seams and notches are matched, and the gather is adjusted to match the bodice.

C Lay the skirt on top of the bodice right sides together, and pin them together.

D Stitch the two pieces together.

E Press seam down from inside

F Press seam from the outside

Almost done with "How to Make a Dress"

Installing the Zipper

Video-Install zipper without pins, less than 10 minutes

A Place zipper 3/8" below neck edge. Bottom of zipper should end at notch.

B Pin closed zipper under opening edges with tab end 3/8" below neck edge, having edges meet at center of zipper.

C Sew 1/4" each side of center and across end, using adjustable zipper foot.

D Should look like this.

Note: The pattern calls for zipper tape, but in this example of how to make a dress, I did not use zipper tape. It can make installing a zipper easier, but this installation went very smooth, and is also an option.

Hem

A In this example I used 1/2" hem. Measure it using a measuring gauge, press, turn it another 1/2" for a finished look.

B Stitch hem and done. This is one version of how to make a dress.

Note: A ruffle is also used at the hem line in some of the costumes on this Simplicity pattern.