tas

shoulder bag tutorial

Here's a rough pattern and guide for making a shoulder bag like one of these, as promised. These are really easy to make, and I always have so much fun choosing fabrics and buttons for them. I have to warn you however that i'm not very good at explaining things in words, so I hope you can understand my general meaning in these directions! Please email me if you need further instruction, and I'll be happy to help! I couldn't work out how to do a PDF file so this is a very basic and d-i-y version of a pattern! As you can see, I've drawn a tiny, rough and very much NOT-to-scale outline of the pattern which you will need to draw to the proper measurements yourself on some tracing paper or a piece of newspaper. It doesn't matter if it's not quite right, as long as it's symmetrical. The entire length of the pattern is 28 inches. This will make a bag that's a good size for your wallet, keys and a few books, but it's easy to make it a bit deeper or the strap a bit longer, if you wish. Just add a couple of extra inches. Umm, and that measurement on the strap should say 18". Sorry about that.

Once you've drawn and cut out your pattern, cut two from your chosen bag fabric, and two from your lining fabric. I usually use recycled fabrics- old curtains, blankets, vintage bits and pieces... but you could use anything that takes your fancy. Something fairly sturdy for the outside works best though. After cutting these out, I also cut a pocket for the inside, I use some of the outer fabric for this, cut into a rectangle about 8" X 6.5". Then I cut a strip measuring 5" X 1.5" to make a loop with which to fasten the bag to a button, if you choose to use this method. You could also make two ties to fasten, or use velcro or a snap fastener.
1. Start with your outer bag pieces. Place right sides together, and sew the seams at each edge, between the *s on the pattern, like this:

2. Then open out the piece so that the seams are at the front and back of the bag. Sew along the bottom seam.

3. Then square off the corners by pinching each one out, then sewing straight across about an inch from the corner's edge. Trim excess.

4. Repeat these steps with the lining pieces, but remember to leave a gap in the bottom seam, for turning inside-out later on.

5. Overlock or zig-zag the top edge of your pocket. Press the edge down about half an inch, and top-stitch. Then press your pocket half an inch all around. Pin to the outside of the lining where you would like it, and stitch it down.

6. Make your loop for the button. Press in both edges of the strip towards the centre, then fold in half and press again. Sew the edges together (this is just like a bias strip.)

7. Now sew the lining and outer pieces together. Place one inside the other, right sides together. Match centre seams, and pin. Insert your loop between the two layers on one side of the bag, so the ends of the loop are sticking out, and pin it securely.

8. Sew about 1/4" from the edge, all along both sides of the bag, right up to the top edges.

9. Now clip like mad around the curved edges, nearly to the seam.

10. Turn the bag right-way-out through the gap in the lining. Now press all around the edges of the bag where you have sewn, so that both layers 'sit' nicely. Trim the tops of the straps so they're even and of equal length.

11. Sew the top of the strap together- at just the outer pieces. Place right sides together, and sew a 1/4" seam. (This is a bit fiddly under the machine, but it's okay.) Press down. Then tuck in the lining pieces at this point and hand-stitch it closed.

9. Press the strap again and if you are happy with everything, top-stitch a 1/4" seam all around the edges of the bag. Hand-sew the gap in the lining closed. And hand-sew a big button on the front of the bag, in such a position so the loop will fit nicely around it.

10. Ta Da! Enjoy your new bag! I'm off to eat this chocolate.

p.s. please email me a picture if you try this out because I'd love to see it! Also, this is my first time doing instructions like these, so please let me know if I need to make corrections. Thanks!

You will need:
1 yard main/outer fabric (I use good quality quiting weight cotton, but you could use home decor weight fabrics for a stiffer bag.)
1 yard base/lining fabric (I use linen, but canvas or home decor weight fabric would work too)
3.5 yards (4 to be safe) very lightweight interfacing (I use Pellon JAS Val-U-Fuse 44FPKG10)
Matching thread
Contrasting thread (for topstitching)

1.  Start with your main fabric.  Fold your fabric in half from selvedge to selvedge.  Cut two 19" x 21" pieces and two 2" x 21" pieces.  Pay attention to the direction of the pattern if you are print fabric.  The 21" will be the width of your bag, the 19" will be the height.

2.  Fold your base/lining fabric in half from selvedge to selvedge.  Cut two 19" x 21" pieces, two 9.5" x 21" pieces, and two 2" x 21" pieces. Again, pay attention to the direction of the pattern if you are print fabric.  The 21" will be the width of your bag, the 19" will be the height (and for the base the 9.5" is the height).

3.  Cut your interfacing.  You will need to cut four 21" x 19" pieces, two 21" x 9.5" pieces, and four 2" x 21" pieces.

4.  Now we're done with cutting!  Check to make sure you have all your pieces.

5.  Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of each piece (both main/outer fabric pieces and base/lining fabric pieces).

6.  Trim the excess interfacing off of each piece to square them up.  

7.  Place one main bag piece right side up with the width (21" side) horizontal.  Place a base (9.5" x 21") piece wrong side up on top of the main piece, with the bottom edge of the base 8.5" from the bottom of the main bag piece.

8.  Pin base onto main bag piece.  Repeat with other base and main bag piece.

9. Using your matching thread, sew along the pinned side of the fabric with a 1/2" seam allowance (you can use the side of your presser foot it that's easier for you to sew a straight line against).

10.  Flip base fabric right side out over the main bag piece and press.  Repeat with other side of bag.

11.  Using your contrasting thread, topstitch along the top edge of your base fabric, lining the seam up with the edge of your presser foot.  You might want to increase your stitch length to do this (my stitch length is set at 3 when I topstitch).

12.  Topstitch again using a 1/4" seam allowance below the first row of topstitching.

13.  Repeat steps 11-12 on the second outer bag piece.

14.  Pin both outer bag pieces with right sides together.  Make sure to align the base panel seams.

15.  Using your matching thread, sew around the sides and bottom (not the top) of the bag using a 1/2" seam allowance.  I actually sew around the three sides twice to make it extra strong.

16.  Pin lining pieces right sides together.

17.  Sew sides and bottom using a 5/8" seam allowance, making sure to leave an opening at the bottom for turning.

18.  Press seams open on outer bag and lining.

19.  Now it's time to make the box pleats.  Pull the fabric at one of the corners of the main bag so that the side seam and the bottom seam are on top of each other.  Align the seams and pin.  Measure 3 1/2" down from the peak and draw a line perpendicular to the seam.  The line should be 7" long.

20.  Using your matching thread, sew along the line you drew, making sure to backstitch at the ends.  It might be a good idea to sew a couple times along this line for extra strength.  (Ignore the line on the right in my picture, measured wrong at first.)

21.  Repeat step 19 on your lining corners, except measure 3 1/2" down from the peak and draw your line across.  The line should measure 6 1/2".  Repeat step 20, again sewing across the seam multiple times for extra strength.

22.  Cut the corners of both the outer bag and lining 1/2" from the seam you just made.

23.  Place one lining and one main fabric handle piece right sides together and pin.  Repeat with the second set of handle pieces.

24.  Using matching thread, sew along the long sides of each handle using a 1/4" seam allowance.

25.  Turn the handle tubes right side out.

26.  Flatten and press each handle.

27.  Using constrasting thread, topstitch along the long sides of the handles using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Topstitch again 1/4" from the first topstitched line.

28.  Place one of your handles inside of the lining and place each end 5 1/2" from the outer edge of each side of the bag with the lining side of the handle facing the right side of the bag lining.  Align the top edge of each side of the handle with the top edge of the lining.  You should have approximately 5" between the inner edges of the handles.   Repeat with the other handle on the other side of the bag.

29.  Place your outer bag inside of your lining so the right sides of the outer bag and lining are together.

30.  Start pinning the tops together by aligning the side seams with each other.

31.  Continue pinning all the way around the bag.

32.  Using matching thread, sew completely around the top of the bag using a 1/2" seam allowance.  You can sew around this seam multiple times for extra reinforcement.

Pay special attention to where the handles are located, sewing a few extra rows of stitches on top of the handle within the seam allowance.

33.  Turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining.

34.  Align the corners on each side in the bottom of the bag, and pin the outer bag and lining together at the top seam.

35.  Using contrasting thread, topstitch along the top seam of the bag, aligning the edge of your presser foot with top of the bag.  Topstitch again 1/4" from the first topstitched line.

36.  Slipstitch the opening in the lining closed and press your finished bag.

That's it!  Enjoy your new market tote!  (Finished totes are 13" wide x 14" high x 7" deep).

This tutorial is for personal use only.  Please do not use this tutorial to make items to sell.